A refrigerator doesn’t need a dedicated circuit for itself but it needs to be on a circuit that can handle its operating current.
The cable on this circuit must also be protected with a circuit breaker that trips off power if it is overloaded. This prevents the cable from heating up and potentially causing a fire. This post will discuss four considerations you should make when deciding if a refrigerator should be on a dedicated circuit.
Refrigerator Wiring Overview
A refrigerator will be plugged into a power outlet. This outlet will have a cable that tracks back to the switchboard where it is protected by a circuit breaker or fuse.
The job of this circuit breaker is to ensure that power to the circuit is shut off in the event of a short circuit or overload. An overload is a type of fault that occurs when the amount of current being drawn from various appliances (microwaves, refrigerators, etc) exceeds the capacity of the cable.
This causes the cable to heat up, eventually causing the insulation on the cable to melt. Many fires are caused by electrical overloads. As cables are located in places where we can’t see such as behind walls and in ceilings, it is important that cable protection via circuit breakers is present.
If a circuit is potentially overloaded the solution is to install a bigger cable or provide a dedicated circuit for the appliance. Here are four considerations that should be made when installing a refrigerator.
1. Check Electrical Specifications For Refrigerator Online
The refrigerator will have a paper manual that came with it.
The manual will have electrical specifications including voltage it needs to operate at (bad things happen when this changes), frequency and operating current. The operating current is the main piece of information we are interested in. It is from this current rating that we can determine if the circuit cable size is big enough.
2. Check The Cables Current Carrying Capacity
Each cable size is capable of carrying different amounts of current.
The larger the cable diameter, the more current it can carry. Most power outlets are wired with either 1.5mm2 or 2.5mm2 cable (AUS/NZ). This is typically fused at 16 amps and 20 amps respectively.
A fridge drawing anywhere between 1 and 6 amps which is typical will be well within the range of these two cables. This will change with other appliances on the same circuit.
3. Other Appliances On Same Circuit
Next we should take into account other wall outlets on the same circuit and any appliances plugged into them. This could include microwaves, blenders and other kitchen appliances.
As a fridge operates 24/7, it is important to consider the total amperage used by other appliances at the same time.
If this exceeds the limit of the cable, then it could overload the cable and trip the breaker. Check the specifications for each appliance that you are likely to use at the same time.
4. Circuit Breaker Fusing
The circuit breaker for the circuit is designed to protect the cable from causing a fire. This means that it will trip off power to the circuit when this defined current limit is exceeded.
For a power outlet this could be either 16 or 20 amps depending on the size of the cable used. Ensuring that the fuse rating is correct is important.
For example, if the circuit breaker was rated at 32 amps then both of these cables would catch fire before tripping which obviously isn’t ideal. The current rating of the breaker should be at or below the current capacity of the cable used.
Electricians Perspective
A refrigerator running 24/7 can use a lot of power. Whether or not it needs to be on a dedicated circuit depends on the current usage of other appliances on the same circuit. As long as the current carrying capacity of the cable isn’t exceeded and the correct fusing is in place, then there is no particular reason why the fridge should be on its own circuit.
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